Thu 27 Oct 2005
Routing
Once you’ve made your bit selection and chucked the bit securely in the router’s collet, you’re ready to adjust the router bit’s depth of cut. Start with a shallow cut. That way you can avoid straining the router and your arms by making too deep a cut at the first go. Increase the depth of the router gradually (instead of cutting to final depth with your first pass). A lot of woodworkers opt to do a test cut in some scrap material first to give you an idea as to how deep your router bit is set to cut.
If you’re using a router table, adjust the fence position to “hide” or cover part of the bit, starting off with a light cut and then moving the fence back to reveal more of the bit. This approach works well with larger molding bits and vertical panel-raising bits, which shouldn’t cut the finished profile in one pass. For router table operations, you’ll also need to adjust the bit’s height above the table the equivalent of the usual depth-of-cut adjustment you make when the router is rightside up.
To adjust depth-of-cut on a fixed-base router, loosen the clamp in the router base and move the motor housing up or down until the bit extends just the right amount below the baseplate.
What about plunge routers?
Plunge routers work differently. They come equipped with a mechanism that limits the depth of plunge a depth stop. You set the depth stop for each job; you’ll need to consult your router’s manual for precise instructions.
When you have set the depth of cut and locked it in, make at least one test cut on a piece of scrap wood. This dress rehearsal can prevent the ruin of valuable lumber. It’s also a sound safety check to see if you’re trying to remove too much material in a single pass.
Added safety points when routing
- Never start a router with the router bit in contact with the wood.
- Always turn it on with the base set firmly on the work surface.
- Use ear and eye protection.
- If you are routing with an edge guide or a piloted bit, your workpiece needs to be clamped so that it won’t shift when you’re cutting it.
- Check the slack in the power cord. You need to be able to go the full distance of the cut without stopping. A lot of woodworkers drape the cord over their shoulder.
- If you’re using the router table, your test cuts will have told you whether you needed to set up featherboards and/or use hold-downs to provide valuable “third-hand” assistance.
Ready, steady, rout
- Handheld routing: Start the motor, then feed the bit into the wood, cutting from left to right.
- Plunge routing: Start the motor and lower the bit slowly into the work before you move the router. Rout deep slots or mortises in multiple passes, lowering the bit about 1/4 inch with each pass. When you’re finished, raise the bit clear of the work before you switch the router off. No matter what kind of router you have, always leave the base flat on the work until the bit stops spinning.
- Router table: Feed the workpiece from right to left, using a steady, even feed rate. Apply pressure against the table and against the fence as you feed the stock into the bit. Use plastic or wooden push blocks to keep your hands well clear of the bit.
- Routers and router tables
- Flush trim routers bits
- Router bit sets
- Shaper cutter router bits
- Sign making router bits
- Slot cutter and finger joint router bits
- Chamfer router bits
- Edge router bits
- Miniature router bits
- Raised panel and stile and rail router bit sets
- Speciality router bits
- Straight and rabbetting router bits
- Router bit accessories
(article adapted from CornerHardware - original article ‘Router Power! Tips on using the most versatile portable power tool’ By Sandor Nagyszalanczy )
