If you are serious about woodworking, you’ll have a router (or 2) around in the workshop. The number of jobs a router can do for you is endless - you can create your own molding, you can make panelled doors, trim laminates, etch lovely dado grooves. There are generally 2 main types of routers - you either have a fixed-base router or a plunge model.

Router safety

Don’t get me wrong - every woodworking power tool (or handtools for that matter) can prove a dangerous weapon in the wrong hands. Routers spin at an average of 20,000rpm so they aren’t a tool to be taken lightly.

  • Needless to say, when you first take your router out of the box, familiarize yourself with ALL the features and where everything sits on the router BEFORE you even plug it into the power point. For plunge routers, make sure you work out how to lower and raise the bit and how to work that all important plunge lock.
  • Always ensure the router is really off before you plug it in - routers can be left on in the locked position so it pays to make sure it’s off first before you plug it in.
  • Always unplug the router before you make any major adjustments to it eg whe you change bits, adjust the bit’s depth of cut or mount accessories. Don’t be lazy - you only have 10 fingers, don’t want to lose any.
  • Grip the handle of the router firmly when you turn it on - big routers have enough starting torque to jerk out of your hands if you’re not paying attention. Steel yourself for that starting jerk.
  • Always keep both hands on the router’s handles.
  • Don’t forget your safety gear - wear goggles and ear protection. The number of woodworkers who have developed hearing loss and lost vision from flying timber bits are astounding - don’t let your hobby cripple you!

Working with a router

There are 3 ways of working with a router. Each method uses different bits and requires different accessories.

  1. Routing with an edge guide
    An edge guide is a valuable accessory for any router - it helps by keeping the router going in a straight line. The edge guide has a straight face that can be adjusted at different distances from the bit. You adjust it so that it runs against a straight edge of the workpiece.
  2. Routing with a piloted bit or guide bushing
    A ball bearing guide, mounted on a router bit’s shaft, allows the bit to travel along the edge of a workpiece or template. Edge treatment bits all depend on pilot bearings for guidance.
  3. Using a router table
    Routers can be mounted upside down in a router table therefore becoming a stationary tool that works just like a wood shaper. Most router table operations are done using a fence to guide the workpiece. Note that larger bits, like panel-raising bits and multiform bits, are designed for router-table use only; they’re too big to use safely in hand-held mode.

(article adapted from CornerHardware - original article ‘Router Power! Tips on using the most versatile portable power tool’ By Sandor Nagyszalanczy )